The Sonoma Table

"I don't think about whether people will remember me or not. I've been an okay person. I've learned a lot. I've taught people a thing or two. That's what's important. Sooner or later the public will forget you, the memory of you will fade. What's important is the individuals you've influenced along the way." ~Julia Child. 

As a pioneer and ground (not to mention ceiling) breaker in many areas with a larger-than-life spirit, it’s hard to imagine the memory of Dame Julia Child fading. This month, we celebrate the anniversary of Julia’s birthday (which is today August 15th): the doyenne of French cooking in America, the first lady of culinary broadcasting, an absolute icon to millions of home cooks and women in food, beverage and hospitality - and one of our beloved LDEI founders. In honor of her birthday, a few of our own Dames and a dear friend have shared with us stories and anecdotes that give us insight into the deeply caring, down-to-earth woman who was a passionate teacher, advocate and role model with a wonderful sense of humor! 

Enjoy these wonderful “Moments with Julia”: snapshots of a kind, inspiring, intelligent, witty and irreverent Julia Child and a few of our own experiences! 

Cooking for Mary Frances and Julia Child? Not On Your Life!
Dame Kathleen Thompson Hill, Sonoma/San Francisco

Marsha Moran, M.F.K. Fisher’s longtime secretary, called to say Julia
Child was on her way to Last House, Mary Frances’ home on David
Pleydell-Bouverie’s ranch and estate in Glen Ellen. Marsha asked if I
would like to come up, and hurry if I did. That decision took about one
one-hundredth of a second.

After I leapt at Marsha’s invitation it turned out to be just a first of several
get-togethers among the three of us. We sat around Mary Frances’s
round table and gabbed. I learned a lot as they talked and gossiped
about so-and-so chef or food writer. After almost two hours,
Mary Frances asked me to get a particular book off her shelf.

It was a book about food and cultural cooking, as I call it, in southern France. Julia asked Mary Frances if they might translate it together, and Mary Frances’ response was, “If Kathleen will do the work.” Fortunately I had degrees in French from U.C. Berkeley and the Sorbonne and had talked my way into being an early auditor at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. The three of us agreed to the project.

And then Julia suggested we “change the subject from bookery to cookery. I’m hungry! Is there a McDonald’s nearby?” I said it was about five miles back down the road in Sonoma. Mary Frances’ Parkinson’s Disease had pretty much grounded her, so one of these two great cooks suggested I see what was in the refrigerator and whip something up. What?

For Julia Child and M.F.K. Fisher? Whip up lunch from what was in the fridge? So I did.

Sliced eggplant, tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil on a sheet pan in the oven, bread someone happened to have dropped off from what was the original Artisan Bakery in Sonoma, and a salad, for which Mary Frances said, “Just make a vinaigrette dressing.” OK.

 As I worked facing the sink with my back to the two grande dames of food, Julia sensed something and said softly, “Just add a little Dijon mustard and you’ll be fine.” A gentle teacher indeed.

It’s Just Food, My Dear  
Dame Doralice Handal, Sonoma

I met Julia at the opening day breakfast at Copia. She was sitting on a bar stool next to Robert Mondavi.  I was volunteering at the event and marched right up to both of them, introduced myself and then thanked them for Copia. I told Robert Mondavi this story about how his deconstruction of wine snobbery had such a positive effect on me: that the best thing you can do with a cork after you pull it from a bottle is bounce it off your forehead. To which Julia chuckled. I asked Julia if she had any advice for a cook like me, to which she responded,  “Don't worry so much about pleasing others, it's just food my dear.” They were both tremendously nice and it was a pleasure serving them that day.  I did have to go out outside a couple of times and pinch myself. 

Keep Thinking Differently 
Dame Gilian Handelman, Sonoma

I met Julia Child in 1999 when Kendall-Jackson was sponsoring a cookbook and series she and Jacques Pepin (dear friends, these two were). I was asked to give her a tour of the estate culinary garden that the famed gardener and seed-saver Jeff Dawson had developed in 1997 at Jess Jackson’s behest.

The tomatoes were in full swing at that time; we had over
100 varieties in the ground and Jeff and I had decided to
plant them by color from lightest to darkest, instead of
by type (cherry, plum, beefsteak, etc). She marveled at
our unique approach and the two of us set off into the
rows to taste. Julia walked with a cane, and slowly—but
her zeal was never more evident; we pulled tomatoes off
vines and slurped them down, exclaiming as the juices
dripped down our chins.

She was full of commentary, with no small amount, too, of sarcasm and wit. She laughed easily, and marveled at how flavor intensity built in the tomatoes as the color deepened. “Just like wine! Isn’t that uncanny!” A discussion about the ideal antidote to the ten-course tasting menu came up: the perfect BLT with a late-summer tomato as the hero.

We walked and tasted among the rows for half an hour as the light began to change in the sky and when we parted ways, she hugged me warmly and told me to keep thinking differently.

She Changed My Ideas About What Was Possible For Women  
Dame Julie Schreiber, Sonoma

I was an avid watcher of Julia Child’s TV show on public television as
a kid. So much so that I was inspired to become a chef. Prior to her
being on television, I didn’t think it was a job women could do. I had
the privilege of meeting her when she came to my school, the
Culinary Institute of America. We were all so excited to hear her speak
and meet her.

They Can Wait!  
Dame Erin Hunt Moore, Sonoma

In 2000, during my days in Cambridge, MA, I was honored to have the chance to co-found the Boston Chapter of Slow Food. This became a wonderfully rich community of more than 700 chefs, sommeliers, writers, farmers, food purveyors, and consumers who were all interested in connecting the faces and history behind our food, preserving traditions and promoting education. And Julia Child was a fan.

In 2001, as Julia was closing up her house and preparing to move to Santa Barbara, I was invited to one of her many send-off events organized by Cambridge and Boston chefs. Slow Food Boston member and legendary cheesemonger, Ihsan Gurdal of Formaggio Kitchen, urged me to share his reception table as a representative of Slow Food Boston. Always looking to connect with prospective members and supporters, I jumped at the chance. 

I never met Julia. She lived near us and I had waved at her a few times over her Cambridge fence. I never wanted to disturb those rare quiet private moments in her garden. Fast forward to the send-off event: the reception was held in a large tent featuring food from chefs in Cambridge. Supported by a seat walker and surrounded by assistants and the event hosts, she made her way around the room. She would stop and share a brief exchange, a smile, and a delighted laugh with everyone. When she got to our table, she gestured to her entourage, sat down, beckoning me. “What is your name, dear? Now, tell me, what led you to get involved with Slow Food? Are you a Chef? Do you cook? Tell me more!” She was focused and present, ignoring that her people were beginning to grow impatient. I began feeling uncomfortable, aware of the shift in the room. She still had other guests to meet and there was a timeline to honor. She didn’t budge, telling me “They can wait, my dear.” Shortly thereafter, she got up, shared a parting word of encouragement and continued around the room. She had taken the time to share her support for me, a young woman in the industry. I was truly honored by our exchange and one I will never forget.

An Unscripted Life
Katie Pratt, Napa: Winemaker, artist, photographer, curator and lifelong friend

I had the great privilege of knowing Julia in a very up close and personal way. She and Paul were my parent’s, Herb and Pat Pratt, best friends in Cambridge, MA. They were introduced by my uncle Davis Pratt, who had been an art student of Paul’s before the war. When the Childs moved to Cambridge in 1961, they didn’t know a soul. Uncle Davis offered to introduce them to my parents and they hit it off. Julia and my mom were both “Smithies” (graduates of Smith College) and they all had quite a lot in common. I was there for the ride and very lucky. We were very close and familial. I was incredibly fortunate to travel with Julia, Paul and my parents overseas, to Maine and Santa Barbara and beyond. So many meals and shared discoveries. 

It was an absolute joy watching Julia evolve into the woman and
celebrity she became. She didn’t have an agenda to be a star. She
was practical, caring, intelligent, thoughtful and well-organized. She
absolutely fell in love with cooking and used all of those skills to
produce a book. And although she was ready to rise to the occasion
when television and more opportunities presented themselves, I
never saw her with an inflated ego. She had been planning on giving
cooking classes! Stardom happened - almost by accident. She remained connected and present, always - with an ever-present sense of humor and pragmatism.  

Julia loved younger people - and especially up-and coming young women feeling their way in the wine and food world. She wanted to help and was thrilled to be a mentor. In the early years, the culinary world was so male dominant. She would spend time talking to and advising women - bringing them with her. An example was her work with Sara Moulton. After she met Sara, Julia hired her to help her on her set. And from there, Julia continued to support her as she grew into her own expertise and recognition. 

Yes, Julia is an icon, but in her life, she was incredibly creative and imaginative. There was no script. She came up with it on her own and ran with it - assisted by a bit of luck! This really was her mantra - be ready and run with it, with gusto and joy! 

—Written by Dame Erin Hunt Moore

“Les Dames d’Escoffier is a leadership culinary organization composed of women who have not only achieved success in their profession, but who contribute significantly to their communities. Since its incorporation 25 years ago, Les Dames d’Escoffier has followed its mission to elevate the profession through mentoring members and helping worthy students succeed in their culinary careers. I am very proud to be a member.” Julia Child