The Sonoma Table

Every March, the world comes together to celebrate Women's History Month, a time dedicated to honoring the achievements, contributions, and resilience of women throughout history. From political leaders and activists to artists and scientists, and in our case chefs, winemakers, cheesemakers and entrepreneurs, women have played pivotal roles in shaping societies and driving progress across the globe. In this newsletter, we will offer up many ways to celebrate and support US throughout the upcoming month. But first…….

WOMEN WHO FISH!

We have celebrated so many talented women in so many fields....winemakers, farmers, writers, chefs, cheesemakers.......but what about those fisherwomen (or fishers) and fishmongers!  Traditionally dominated by men, the industry is experiencing a sea change as more and more women step into the bustling markets and fishing communities. As we begin to celebrate Women's History Month, it's an opportune moment to shed light on the inspiring stories of female fisherwomen and fishmongers, their challenges, triumphs, and the impact they are creating in a traditionally male-dominated profession.

The F/V Princess and Her All Female Crew

Just off the coast in Fort Bragg, The Princess, along with
the many other fishing vessels, is docked in Noyo Harbor
ready to head out to bring in today’s catch. However, The
Princess stands out amongst her peers as she is the only
vessel with an all-female crew. Captain Heather Sears
found The Princess in 2008 and she and her crew have
been fishing ever since.

Lucky for us, our very own Dame Barbara Barrielle wrote an article for the East Hampton Star (New York) last April about The Princess. Here is her piece - thanks Barbara!

“Lately, around Noyo Harbor, which is a fishermen's hub, those who fish are increasingly women. The Princess, a fishing vessel, and her all-female crew led by Captain Heather Sears, is making a true splash in these historically male-centric waters and it is unquestionably deserved. More than a boat, the Princess is also a seafood distributor, and now a restaurant.

On board, Wendy, Cybelle, Maia, and Captain Heather are no princesses, and they are respected by San Francisco restaurateurs like Scoma’s, a waterfront restaurant happy to pay extra for the best available fish when the Princess shows up with her catch.

The boat, built in 1980, the same year Heather was born, was already christened Princess when she found her in Nanaimo, Canada, in 2008. Short, slow, and fat, as Heather describes her, the boat can pack eight tons of fish, usually more than they can catch, and fishing trips take anywhere from two to 18 days. As Heather explains, “We fish until the chocolate runs out…oh, and the diesel.”

The Princess formerly only sold fresh catch off the boat but recently the group opened the Princess Seafood Market and Deli at the docks, specializing in sashimi grade, sustainable wild-caught, local seafood. The kitchen makes delicious smoked wild king salmon chowder, grilled rockfish sandwiches, fish tacos, shrimp and crab cocktails, and San Francisco favorite, a Crab Louie salad. Or, you can order a whole fish and the all-female staff will prepare and cut the fish to order. The menu changes depending on the catch, of course. Get lucky and you might catch the Princess on her return from the sea. But even if not, her extensive staff of “princesses” is always there making sure there’s plenty of fish.”

Anna’s Seafood, Our Local Woman Fishmonger

Santa Rosa born Anna Svedise was born into a life of seafood. While in grade school, her parents operated a fishing boat and ran Santa Rosa Seafood where Anna at age 11 could be seen cutting fish with incredibly impressive skill. But, she loved fishing more. In fact, she would sleep in her fishing gear by the front door so her dad wouldn’t go fishing without her!  Fast forward to 2015, Anna opened her own seafood business - Anna’s Seafood - in Petaluma at age 24 and now employees over 22 employees, many of them women.

As a rare woman fishmonger, she has noticed that women tend to be better fish cutters. “What I’ve noticed is that women do it with love,” she said. “It’s a little more perfect. Women have gentle hands. They’re very precise and less rough.”

Last year the Press Democrat published a feature on Anna which you can read here.

Annie Nagel, Champion Kayak Fisher
While many fishers tend to fish from their larger ocean-going vessels, Sonoma County native Annie Nagel prefers fishing from her mere 13 ft kayak. She discovered fishing after a severe car accident when she was 18. Always a competitor and adrenaline junkie, she didn’t find the ‘rush’ she enjoyed before the accident.  It all came back when she reeled in her first catch.

After that, she was ‘hooked’. Since then, she has caught over 100 species of fish, champion of the 2017 Crabfest Kayak Tournament, and featured on Angler West TV. But probably her proudest achievement was establishing Scales in My Nails Challenge which aims to get more women on the water. Keep up the great work, Annie!

The Original Oyster Girls of the USA

Jazmine & Aluxa have been shucking oysters for nearly 17 years. Frequently patronizing area oyster bars, they began to notice that bars tended to be male-dominated, as Jazmine noted, by “hairy dudes with big muscles using brut force to open these delicate creatures”. She continues, “Oysters are so feminine. We wanted to bring a feminine touch to the catering space and show just how gentle you can be as a shucker.”

Once the Traveling Oyster Bar was up and running (managed by Aluxa), they added a permanent Oyster Bar & Restaurant, The Shuckery, in Petaluma, where you will find Jazmine showcasing her shuckery skills. As if that wasn’t enough to manage, they also recently opened Luma Bar & Eatery also in Petaluma. While you may not find oysters on the menu, you will find ingredient-driven, fresh Mediterranean California Cuisine.  You can read more about the Oyster Girls in this Sonoma Magazine article.

Nele Bekaert, World’s First Woman Horseback Shrimp Fisher

While she lives 5,500 miles from Sonoma County, Nele’s story
is worth sharing. In various cultures, fishmongering has deep-
rooted traditions and cultural significance. For 500 years
fishing for shrimp on horseback was the primary shrimp
fishing method along the North Sea. Brabant horses walk
breast-deep in the surf, parallel to the coastline, pulling
funnel-shaped nets held open by two wooden boards. A
chain dragged over the sand creates vibrations, causing the shrimp to jump into the net. Today Oostduinkerke, Belgium is the last place in the world where this practice continues. Typically this practice has been passed down from fathers to sons.

Eight years ago, Unesco officially recognized this tradition and at the same time allowed for the first woman to practice the trade. Only 17 fishers remain and now Nele is one of them. Nele was also the subject of Angela Dansbury’s BBC article  “Europe’s 500-Year-Old Seafood Tradition,” for which she was awarded the Grand Prize Winner of LDEI’s M.F.K. Fisher Award in 2020.

—Written by Dame Lisa Stavropoulos