The Sonoma Table
Les Dames d’Escoffier Sonoma County
Newsletter March 2024
Earth Day 2024 marks another significant moment of global reflection and action as communities worldwide unite in their commitment to environmental stewardship. With a heightened awareness of the urgent need for sustainability, Earth Day serves as a poignant reminder of our responsibility to protect and preserve our planet for future generations.
Last year we highlighted the sustainable initiatives of 5 amazing Sonoma County women. Refresh your memory here! All this great work is still going strong - keep it up, ladies!
This year, we couldn’t think of a more perfect time to celebrate our Dames who have been recognized with the prestigious Snail of Approval Award from Slow Food USA.
Established in 1986 in Italy by Carlo Petrini, the Slow Food movement evolved from a local protest against the disappearance of local food traditions to a global movement fighting to ensure that everyone has access to good, clean and fair food.
Many years later, the Slow Food Snail of Approval award was established to recognize food and beverage establishments that are pursuing and practicing Slow Food values in their business, such as supporting local farmers, preserving traditional culinary techniques, and promoting biodiversity. This powerful award helps bring attention to amazing food businesses that are excelling in two or more of these areas: sourcing, environmental impact, cultural connection, community involvement, staff support, and/or business values.
On February 28, food lovers, community members, and more gathered to celebrate the 2023 Snail of Approval Awards which included FOUR of our very own Dames.
Dame Liza Hinman
2023 Snail Winner
“We were so honored to be part of this year's class of Snail awards. The tenants of "good, clean and fair" that encompass the Snail Award, and Slow Food ethos, are ones we strive to incorporate in everything that we do at The Spinster Sisters.”
Dame Naomi Crawford
2022 Snail Winner
**Lunchette**
“We work with FEED Cooperative which is a consortium of 80+ local organic growers to get the best fruits, vegetables, grains, etc. Every business must be part of the solution when it comes to environmental, social, and economic justice. Receiving the Snail acknowledges this good work.”
Dame Donna Del Ray
2021 Snail Winner
**Relish Culinary Adventures**
“I’m a true believer in the tenets around “joy and justice” that Slow Food represents—food and eating should be joyful, delicious and nourishing and there’s serious work to be done to ensure all people have access to ‘good and clean’ food.”
Dame Sheana Davis
2021 Snail Winner
“I have been an advocate for the Slow Food Snail of Approval program since receiving my "Snail" by nominating farms and restaurants, as well as supporting and championing businesses, whose ethos are consistent with Slow Food.”
CONGRATULATIONS, DAMES! KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!
—Written by Dame Lisa Stavropoulos
Member Spotlight
Dame Melissa Smith
Dame Melissa Smith is a consummate polymath. Talented in many areas and endlessly curious, Melissa has worked in hallowed restaurants such as Terra and the French Laundry, blows glass as a hobby, cultivates a wide circle of wine and food people around the world and has forged a unique path as an expert in cellar valuation—a rarified skill that lands her in courtrooms as an expert witness and in articles chronicling the world of wine collectors. Generous with her time and her myriad skills, Melissa is known for arriving at gatherings with a collection of expertly baked gougeres, exotic desserts and hand-bottlings of rose water—a nod to her Tunisian husband’s roots.
Let’s learn more about Melissa.
How'd you get into the food industry?
I grew up in Fremont, and during high school I worked at a high-end catering business and managed their retail shop. Because I had no idea what “culinary” meant, I'd spend my time reading Gourmet and Bon Appetit while my classmates were reading Cosmo and YM. One day on a family trip, we stopped at the giant stone castle (Greystone!) on highway 29 in St Helena that I’d always been curious about and were asked if we wanted to join the cooking demonstration. By the end of it I knew I never wanted to leave the building. I took the one-week career exploration course during spring break when all of the other seniors went to Cancun and by the end of the week I had three job offers at Greystone along with many other opportunities.
Who Inspired you to get into the food industry and who inspires you still?
I loved the programs on Channel Nine. Yan Can Cook, Jacques Pepin, Joanne Weir, and Rick Bayless all had massive impacts on my career. Now I am inspired by my travels, the tucked away gems where they are perfecting a handful of dishes.
Is there a woman in the food industry that inspires you?
Fellow Dame Christina Topham is such an inspiration, she's making incredible food and constantly facing the challenges of a small business owner with grace and transparency.
What are you currently doing?
I am the founder of Enotrias Elite Sommelier Service, a wine appraiser, expert witness, and the creator of the Wine Collecting Master Class. I am spending my days cataloging a 14,000-bottle cellar for a collector who passed away. I also do private tasting events and am working towards buying a property where I can conduct farm-to-table events focusing on extreme sustainability, plant medicine, and community.
What do you enjoy about being a Dame?
Spending time with mentors and peers! It's been very hard for me throughout both careers as a chef and sommelier to find women to relate to, commiserate with and exchange support. I think many of us bootstrap our businesses, self-fund and hold it all together. The more that we can come together, share stories, lessons, and community, the better we’ll be able to support future generations of women entering our industries.
What do you like to do for fun?
Travel! Having the time and means to explore new countries and cultures is the ultimate for me. I also blow glass, paint, and do random creative projects involving plant medicine. Kayaking and horseback riding are also my favorite outdoor pastimes that need to present themselves more often.
Talk about your accomplishments.
Beyond my restaurant, retail and many other areas of experience in the industry, I’m the only person in the country with a legal accreditation on the Valuation of Wine Collections.
My first major expert witness assignment was for the Department of Justice in the "Fat Leonard" trial, the biggest bribery scandal in US history involving the US Navy.
Anything else you’d like to share with us.
I am more grateful for the friends I have in this industry that have shown up for me in various ways than I ever could have imagined. The value of quality women that support other women is more valuable than I think we all realize, and I am so very excited for these bonds to strengthen, for opportunities to thrive and support our communities to present themselves, and to face this next chapter in our lives with fortitude, optimism, experience, passion, and friendship.
Thank you Melissa for all you have contributed to the chapter in this relatively short time!
—Written by Dame Gilian Handelman
Upcoming Events and Reminders
April 5: Listen in to Kathleen Hill’s radio broadcast on KSVY.org or KSVY 91.3 FM as she talks with Lydia Constantini, Manager of Sonoma Mission Gardens, about the importance and the how-to’s of growing our own food. 10:00-11:00am
April 10: Earth First Pint Night, Pizzeria Travigne, St Helena, 5pm-7pm. Three beers featured from Eel River Brewing Company including their “Earth Thirst”.
April 11: Julia’s Table, The Saint, St Helena, 5pm-7pm
April 16: Member Meeting, Tre Posti, St Helena, 5:30pm-8pm
April 21: Climate Fest Earth Day Event, Healdsburg Square, 12-6:30pm. Dame Michelle Wood will be offering free bites from 12-4 and for purchase from 4-6:30pm